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  • Title Page- Saddle Bag Marker / Signal Lights
  • Original Author- QueXpress #16940

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Saddlebag Marker/Signal Lights


Information has been provided on these pages in hope that it will be useful.
Each of these pages contains steps followed to complete certain modifications on my bike.
This is not a shop manual. I am not a mechanic.
I assume no liability is for any damages, direct or otherwise, resulting from the use of this information.
If you choose to follow the steps on these pages, you do so AT YOUR OWN RISK.


After seeing a few Valks with lights on their saddlebags instead of reflectors, I have decided to apply this mod to my own Valk Tourer. I wanted these to operate as running lights, and also as signal lights.

Note: Click on any image to view the full size picture.

Parts used:

I have chosen to use Red LED Marker Lights from J.C Whitney (part number 01ZX4780B) because they are very similar in shape and size to the OEM reflectors.

To use these LED marker lights as running and also as turning lights, I have used a "non-powered" Hoppy 48845 trailer taillight converter. It is inexpensive, very efficient and easy to find (Wallmart, autopart stores, etc.). I had tried a more expensive "powered" one, but it didn't function properly for my application (LED marker lights + Kury mini bullets mentioned below).

Notes: This Hoppy 48845 has also permitted me to use Kuryakyn mini bullets at the front and at the rear of the bike as running/signal lights. For $12.00, IMHO that is quite a bargain!

Click to view full size image
As shown in the pic, the LED marker lights are slightly larger than the OEM reflectors.
The OEM reflectors measure 1 3/16 X 4 1/16 inches
. On the other hand, the LED marker lights measure 1 3/8 X 4 1/2 inches. In order for the light to fit in the pocket on the saddlebag, a little (3/16") must be removed to be removed underside (only part ways). As suggested by SixPack, I have used a utility knife to trim the bottom edges of the lights.


Click to view full size image
To fit the marker lights flush to the saddlebags, two holes must be drilled in each saddlebag (one for stub and the other for the wires at the back of each light).


Click to view full size image
In order to make it possible to remove the saddlebags without cutting wires, etc., connectors will be used. As shown in the pic (under seat, top of fender), there is a good gap between the rear fender and each of the chrome fender supports. That's where the saddlebag marker wires will be routed. Click to view full size image
In order for the wires to exit right under the front saddlebag bracket, holes will need to be drilled inside each saddlebag in the shown corresponding location. This will make a nice clean short path for the wires to follow. Click to view full size image
The pic shows the location where the holes must be drilled in each saddlebag (under the front top saddlebag bracket).
Note: This is a pic of the right (brake side) saddlebag). Others pics are for the left saddlebag. I know ... I should have been consistent when taking the pics...
Click to view full size image
With the saddlebag in place, you can see (top view) the path that the wire will follow from the saddlebag to underneath the seat. Click to view full size image
With the saddlebag in place, you can see (rear view) the path that the wire will follow from the saddlebag to underneath the seat. Click to view full size image
The ground wire (in blue) is fastened to the bottom rear bolt of the saddlebag. The 12 volt wire (in red) follows the bottom contour of the bag before moving up to the exit hole (under the front top saddlebag bracket). Click to view full size image
After exiting the saddlebag under the front saddlebag bracket, the 12 volt wire (in red) passes under the chrome fender bracket to go under the seat. Click to view full size image
Aluminum tape is used to protect the wires inside each saddlebag. Click to view full size image
The connectors under the seat are highlighted with red circles in the picture. The path of the wires are traced in red.

What is a Taillight Converter?

Some trailers operate with the brake lights and turn signals on the same wire (using a one-element bulb on each side). Whenever a vehicle, with separate bulbs for stop and turn, tows a trailer with lamps that have only one one-element bulb per side for both stop and turn, a device called a taillight converter is required.

Since our Valkyries operate with different elements for stop and turn lights, a taillight converter could be used to let the saddlebag LEDs function as running lights, and also as turning lights.

Note: As mentioned on the Hoppy web site, the 48845 module can power 2.1 amps. per stop/signal. In my case it needs to power more than that (1 LED + 2 kury bullets per side). Two lights (2 bullets or one bullet + the LED) would function properly, but not all three together. I have therefore used the converter to activate a relay on each side. Each of these relays powers three lights on one side (left or right). However that is another different mod and will be discussed later on when I get a chance to illustrate this conversion.

The Hoppy 48845 Taillight Converter

The module has 4 input wires (Right Turn, Brake, Left Turn, Tail Light {Run}) and 3 output wires, (Right Turn/Brake, Left turn/Brake, Tail Light {Run}).

The color-coding of the wires on these modules follows a standard which is: Green-Right, Red-Stop,Yellow-Left, Brown-Tail.

Set Up

Since we are dealing with Run/Signal lights only, we will convert this module to be a 3 wire to 2-wire unit.
The brown wire on the converter is eliminated as shown in the pic (cut off at each end and then covered with shrink tube).

Splice the Bike Wires

Splice wires from your Valk wherever you find it most convenient (under the right side cover or in the rear fender area). I have chosen to place the converter under the seat and then to splice into the required wires under the right side cover.

Connections on the Car Side (left side) of the Module:

From the bike, connect the right turn signal wire (light blue) to the green wire, the left turn signal wire (orange) to the yellow wire, and then the taillight wire (brown or brown/white) to the red Brake wire (yes to the brake light).

Why Use the "Stop Circuit" for the Running Lights???

When the taillight wire from the bike is connected to the Brake wire on the module, it powers that circuit all the time. Both lights on the downstream side (Right Turn/Brake and Left turn/Brake) will then receive that power (as if the brake was being used), and be ON at all times.
When a turn signal on the bike is activated, it sends power to the corresponding wire on the "car side" of the module (green or yellow wire). The 48845 module will then interrupt power momentarily to the corresponding wire on the "trailer side" (green or yellow wire). Thus the signal light will start blinking.

The LED marker lights are quite bright and visible. At night time, the Valk now appears much larger when seen from the rear (good for cagers...).

Rear/side view.

Click to view full size image
I am quite happy with the results. These do not look like they were added on as an after thought. 99% of the people (other than Valk owners) are inclined to think that these are OEM.

Side view.

Click to view full size image

Hats off to Master Blaster and to SixPack for patiently sharing their tips and tricks on installing saddlebag lights.
Their suggestions and explanations made it much easier for me to do this mod.   Message Board    ShopTalk    Just Pics    Valkyrie Hot Links