Desmog
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DisclaimerInformation has been provided
on these pages in hope that it will be useful. Our Valks have been equipped
with a secondary air supply system in order to reduce engine emissions
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Note: Click on any image to view the full size picture. |
Attribution:This mod was made possible with the help of many guys on the VRCC tech board (in this case, especially Mase, Patrick, Þrúðr and Slammer). The following is based and has been inspired by the excellent write ups of Lamonster and also of Tim Skelton. |
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Parts to be Removed:Everything shown in the diagram is to be removed except the intakes (encircled in red) and the petcock vacuum tube (also encircled). Note: The red air feed pipes can be accessed on top of the engine, and the 2 blue ones under the engine. |
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Parts required :5/32 Vacuum plugs for intakes 3 and 4 Four 14 mm freeze plugs (not necessary if you choose to use existing parts as explained below) 2 gaskets (part number 17142-MN5-000): not mandatory (the old ones could have been kept) I have made up 2 small aluminum plates as shown (not necessary if using existing parts as explained below) |
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Remove Fuel Tank, Then the AirboxIn order to get at the PAIR control valve
and also the two PAIR check valves, the fuel tank, followed by the airbox,
must be removed. |
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Remove the PAIR control valve assembly and also the 2 attached vacuum tubes going to intakes 3 and 4. Block off the vents on the intakes for carbs 3 and 4 with 5/32 vacuum plugs. |
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Remove
the 2 check valve cases (which contain reed valves). |
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Less clutter, much cleaner!!! | |
On the left side of the engine, 2 air feed pipes (going to exhaust ports 2 and 6) can be removed from the top. Note: removal of the air feed pipe to exhaust port 4 will be done under the engine (see next pic). |
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Left side of engine: Pic of the rear air feed pipe (encircled in blue) going under the engine to exhaust port 4. | |
View of the air feed pipe under the engine
on the left side. Note: After removal, I have used a small aluminum
plate and a gasket (shown in the Parts Required above). |
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On the right side, the air feed pipes going to exhaust ports 1 and 5 can be removed from top of engine. | |
View of the air feed pipe going to exhaust port 3 under the engine on the right hand side. Note: After removal, I have used a small aluminum
plate and a gasket (shown in the Parts Required above). |
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Removal of the crashbar makes it much easier to get at the front tubes. |
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The first air feed pipe is easy to remove after unfastening the shown bolt. |
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However the second air feed pipe, which passes
between the engine and the timing cover to go under the engine, requires
more effort. |
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After making another cut on the same pipe under the engine , it is possible to pull this portion up as shown in the pic. The portion of the air feed pipe which is bolted under the engine can now be unfastened and removed. |
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This is what the four parts of the cut up air feed pipe plus the bolts and gasket look like when placed on the floor. | |
Some guys have simply cut the pipe ends off,
filled them with JB Weld and then let them sit overnight before reinstalling.
It makes for a clean set up. |
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The installed front plug on the right side. | |
The installed rear plug on the left side. | |
The installed front plug on the left side. | |
Removed Parts:A PAIR control valve assembly, 2 PAIR check valves, vacuum tubing for the PAIR valve, 6 metal air feed pipes, rubber tubing. |
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Inside the AirboxThe secondary air intake port (for the PAIR control valve) in the airbox must be plugged. After filling the hole with silicon, a bolt and nut with washers on each end did the job. |
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Under the AirboxThe secondary air intake port be plugged is the second outlet from the rear. |
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As can be seen in the previous pic, the six
intake tubes at the bottom of the airbox are splayed too wide to be easily
inserted within the two frame rails. |
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