Dubrovnik
Since we were not in a rush, we were able to sleep in and have a leisurely breakfast in the
Grand Dining Room. Rob always has Eggs Benedict there and I have the really short stack of
blueberry pancakes, one plate sized pancake.
We sailed into Dubrovnik's harbor earlier than expected and were docked by 11 a.m. What a
beautiful bay with small islands and red tile roofed houses climbing up the hills. They
have a relatively new suspension bridge spanning the mouth of the river which runs into
the bay. There was already a Regent ship, the Seven Seas Mariner, at the dock, but since
we are both small-mid sized ships it did not make us think that the city would be swamped
like it had been in Venice, when there were 5-6 ships docked, all larger than ours. Our
deck looks down on the dock so we could see all of the procedures necessary to provide
shuttle buses for those going into the Old City independently and 14 tour buses of various
sizes for those of us taking excursions. While they got set up, we were entertained by a
9 piece brass band who looked high school age but knew a lot of familiar pieces like “Hit
the Road, Jack.” When we went to get our bus assignment, we found out that they were really
serious about us having photo ID with us today. Apparently there is a gate check and if
someone on a bus has no ID (we all always have our card which gets us back on board and
opens our cabin door and allows us to charge wine, etc.) they were sending the bus back
and delaying departure until everyone had ID, which starts the day off poorly. Our young
guide, Nada, said that they are no longer Communist and will be in the Euro Zone in 2013,
but there are still some remnants of old ways in place.
We had opted to take some excursions that were arranged for groups of 10-16 only so that
we could see and hear more, and this was one of them. We were to spend 3 ¾ hours, with 3
hours of walking in the Old City after a short drive in the hills to get a panoramic view
of the harbor and the walled Old City. We saw a group of BMW riders from Finland at the
view stop and the coastal road looks great for riding. Croatia in general and Dubrovnik in
particular have suffered through a number of catastrophes, both natural and man-made. The
city was destroyed by a large earthquake and completely rebuilt in the 15th century, and
there have been somewhat less destructive earthquakes since. Of course, the most recent
damage was suffered in 1991-2 during the Serbian attacks. Most of the roofs in the Old
City had to be rebuilt after damage from the bombing. As you enter the Old City by going
over the original moat and wooden drawbridge there is a map showing all the bomb damage by
marking every place the pavement was destroyed or a roof blown up or an historical building damaged.
There has been a concerted effort to restore everything according to UNESCO guide
lines which require the use of old methods and materials. What you now find is a
double-walled city with forts at the corners and several monasteries, churches and a
basilica within. Nada ran through the history of Croatia on the bus ride including the
Romans, the Greeks, etc. and showed where the various parts of the Croatian culture came
from. As a people they have been prosperous and continue to be, so prices are a little
higher than in other Eastern European countries. We walked through the City to the
Dominican monastery which has a fantastic collection of church art, including a Titian,
and is maintained by 6 elderly monks and 6 young “trainees.” Nada was married in the
church at this monastery and was eager to show the various artworks which were saved from
damage over the years. On the way we passed the Franciscan monastery which boasts 4 elderly
monks and one of the 3 oldest pharmacies in the world. The four monks earn a steady stream
of cash by charging entry fees to the pharmacy which is still in working mode.
We also viewed the Basilica which boasts a large pipe organ which still plays, a treasury full of
gold work which contains all of the relics of a number of saints, including Blaise, the
patron saint of Dubrovnik (they have arms, legs and the head encased in ornate gold
containers.) We had free time for the last hour and visited the lovely harbor and viewed
some of the small shops selling tourist stuff and also native wares, and had a Croatian
coffee before heading back to the ship. No one checked our papers coming back through into
the harbor, so obviously they didn't care who got out of Dubrovnik, only into the city. We decided to skip the Captain's cocktail reception, which will be packed, since it
is unlimited free drinks and canapes. Tonight we will be dining at the Polo Grill, so
filet mignon for Rob and a whole lobster for Daryl are probably on schedule.